What I Use to Balayage My Own Hair
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Growing up my mom told me that I could do whatever I wanted to my hair!… If I paid for it. Unfortunately, the salon isn’t cheap and I never had enough money to get the blue or purple hair I wanted (thank goodness). I always wanted to try to color my own hair but was way too connected to my hair to experiment into the unknown. Especially when I wanted to go lighter. So I grew up, and went to beauty school! At beauty school, I learned all I needed to know to give me the confidence to color my own hair.
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I always get lots of compliments on my hair, and love to see the reaction when I tell them I do it myself! I’m sure that gets the ball rolling in their minds too. “If she can do it, why can’t I?” Yeah, why not? But before you run down to Walmart for some box with a beautiful blonde on the front, let me give you some tips. Then you won’t turn out looking like one of those troll dolls. Remember it took me 3 sessions of trial and error to get to my hair today. Play around and see what works best for you, it likely will take a few sessions.
Product- Here’s What I Use to do my Balayage:
Keep in mind I use all professional products. I will try to link where you can buy them without a license.
1. Color Bowl
Any color bowl works, I got mine from Sally Beauty Supply on sale for $1.50! Or you can save yourself some money and buy a brush bowl combo here
!
2.Hair Lightener (Bleach).
Okay guys, I know how easy it is to run down to Walmart and grab a box bleach, but DON’T! If you want to really damage your hair and end up with a color not even similar to what you imagined, I can’t stop you. But those pictures on the front? Yeah, they’re liars! Any hairstylist’s worst nightmare is a client strolling in plopping down in your chair and saying, “Oh! It’s a box color!”. If you’re going to do it yourself USE PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS! Your hair and stylist will thank you.
I like to use Wella Blondor Multi Blonde Powder Lightener
, It’s my favorite bleach to use! However, if you have a slightly smaller budget, Clairol Professional Basic White is still a decent option and is much cheaper!
3. Olaplex 3 Step System.
Oh Olaplex, the fountain of youth for your hair! If you ever plan on lightening your hair, Olaplex is a necessity! Olaplex is a professional hair 3 step treatment to limit the amount of damage done to the hair when coloring and lightening. It strengthens, multiplies, and protects disulfide bonds, which means lighter and longer hair! This stuff is gold my friends. However, the only place to find it if you aren’t licensed is online! It can get pretty pricey, but it’s worth every penny. Olaplex Traveling Stylist Kit for All Hair Types Kit
. Guys, even if you aren’t doing your hair yourself grab some Olaplex and bring it to your stylist! Tell her in advance in case she hasn’t used it before! It will literally save your hair! Go check out Olaplex on Instagram (@Olaplex)and you’ll see what I’m talking about! Never lighten without Olaplex!!
4. Developer.
You’re going to need some developer to get that lightener working! I would normally just use a 20 Volume developer
, but when using Olaplaex you need to up your developer one level, So I use 30 Volume Creme Developer
, which can also be purchased at Sally’s. If your hair is more resistant, ethnic, dark, coarse, curly hair, a 40 Volume Creme Developer
may be better for you.
5. Color Brush.
Any color brush will work but I like to use an extra wide jumbo brush because it gets the job done faster. However, You can use a smaller brush for more control if you are feeling a little hesitant. You can save money and buy the bowl and brush in a combo here!
6. Drape.
Use a cape
, towel, old t-shirt, anything you don’t mind getting bleached or colored. I find the t-shirt works the best because when you are lifting your hands to your head, it doesn’t shift or fly in your face.
7. Gloves.
.Latex gloves or even sandwich bags work if you don’t want to buy a whole box. Or Sally’s sells single pairs for about $2. These are very important, you could just do it with your hands but after a while that bleach WILL burn your fingers! Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
8. Comb.
Not a brush, a comb. Any comb will do the job, I just use a normal barbering comb which you can get from Sally’s for a few cents. Or grab a veriety pack here
!
9. Plastic Wrap.
.Whichever plastic wrap you prefer. Aluminum foil will also work but I use plastic wrap because it is lighter, there is less slip, and you can see the hair processing so there is no need to keep opening the foils to check if they’re done!
10. Toner.
I use Redk
en Redken Shades EQ 09V Platinum Ice 
. This one is on Amazon for about $10. Toner is used to add or neutralize pigment so if your not liking the color now (gold, warm, brassy), hold your breath! This toner will take away any brassy yellow pigments by adding violet pigments. Don’t freak out when your hair starts looking purple, it will wash out leaving you with a beautiful ash blonde! It left me with a beautiful silvery blonde which faded to a wonderful ash blonde. If you are wanting a different shade of blonde, for example a honey blonde or golden blonde try a 9Nw
or 9G
. Quick tip: To use my toner (9V) your hair has to be VERY light after bleaching! If you used the 9V and nothing happened, your hair is too dark. Instead of taking your hair through another lightening process, buy the same toner for darker blondes like an 8V
or even a 7V
!
11. Processing Solution.
Redken Shades EQ Gloss Processing Solution 33.8 Oz (1000 ml)
is Shades EQ’s own developer. Yes, you need to use this specific developer. Don’t try to use a different developer with Shades EQ. From experience, the end result is off from what it should be and it fades faster. So yes, it is worth it to buy the Processing Solution. Besides, now you’ll have it to tone your hair whenever you feel like it needs to be refreshed!
Application/Techniques:
Before you begin make sure your hair is dry.
Also, it is best that your hair is bit dirty, so second or third-day hair is perfect! Once you have your old t-shirt and gloves on I sectioned off my hair, leaving a thin bottom layer.
Next, Mix your bleach, Olaplex, and developer.
Unfortunately, I am writing this post after the fact, so I don’t recall how much lightener I ended up using. Just work with 1 or 2 oz of powder lighter at a time, and remix if needed. Add 1/8 oz of Olaplex No.1 to 1 oz of lightening powder mix, then add your developer. I never measure my developer just keep adding little by little till your lightener is about the consistency of Yoplait yogurt.
Now it’s application time!
This is where you get to be creative. I pulled my first layer of hair forward in front of my shoulders and selected my 1st section. I varied my section width but remember to keep the height of your layers thin, if they are too thick the lightener will not penetrate and leave a splotchy look. Start by backcombing that section quite a bit. This will give you a little more insurance that there will not be a bit line in your hair.
Next, decide how high you want your balayage and start applying. You don’t want to have very much bleach on your brush, start with a small amount and add more if you feel you need it. These are the three shapes I used when doing my own hair, you can use one or all of them! The ‘W’ the ‘V’ and what I like to call the ‘swoosh’.
These pictures are from hairbynatalia.com
Remember to really saturate your ends!
But at the top where your actual shape is, don’t use a lot of bleach, you want your balayage to fade into your hair not look like zebra stripes.
Once you have saturated your section, wrap it in a piece of plastic wrap. Make sure not to squeeze it, just pat it on to the section. You can also use a sandwich method and use two pieces of wrap to sandwich the hair. I like to keep the saturated ends more tight under the wrap so no air penetrates it while I leave the top more exposed. I do this to again help with the fade and blending. Your lightener will dry out and stop processing in the air so if you leave the wrap a bit more loose at the top then it will not be as bright as the ends helping to blend everything.
As you continue working, check on your oldest sections as to how they are processing. If you see a spot you need to fix, open it and add more bleach. Or if is as light as you want, pull off your wrap and let it dry out. You can also spray it with water to stop the processing. Remember that you may not get as light as you want the first time, so if it looks like it isn’t processing anymore, pull it out to prevent damage to your hair. Once all your hair has processed sufficiently, rinse your hair.
Time to Tone:
Wring out your hair so it is just damp then mix your toner. I mixed the whole 2oz of Redken 9V with 2oz Processing Solution. Mix this in a color bowl or application bottle and apply to all the lightened areas. Remember to really saturate! You’ll notice it change colors quickly if it doesn’t then your hair isn’t light enough for that toner.
If you want to use my same toner, your hair needs to be very very light! Don’t get freaked out when your hair turns a bit silvery, mine was straight lavender. Keep your toner on for 20 min and then rinse and thoroughly towel dry. Next, add a generous amount of Olaplex No. 2 from roots to ends and comb through. Leave this on for a minimum of 10-20min you can let that baby soak in longer if you have previously damaged hair. Finally wash, dry and style.
Yay! Now you have a beautiful balayage! Try curling it! Here are some bonus tips and products!
Tips!
Watch your hands! You have any bleach on your gloves then touch your hair, it will leave a spot! I wiped my gloved hands on a towel between each section.
Don’t use your nice towels, that toner and bleach will not be nice to it!
Blowing a hot blowdryer on the wrapped hair can help speed up processing time, just don’t melt that wrap!
12. Healthy ends!
The Olaplex allowed me to go 4 shades lighter with almost no damage! But my hair had some split ends before so it’s a good idea to give yourself a baby trim. Pull your straight hair to the front and trim for happy healthy ends!!
13. A hydrating oil.
My favorite oil to use is Aloxxi Style Essential 7 Restorative Hair Serum
. A cheaper alternative would also be a Moroccan oil 
or Argan oil
! These oils just keep your hair moisturized especially at those ends which prevents breakage!
14. Purple Shampoo
Lastly, if you want to keep that ashy blonde, get yourself some purple shampoo! The rich purple color will cancel out any brassy tones.This works similarly to a toner just not as powerful! Perfect to keep up that color without the whole toning process! Simply was your hair with it, let it sit for a few minutes and rinse!
15. Use a Leave-in Conditioner!
I cannot say this enough! Use a leave in conditioner every single time you wash your hair! That’s where you can continue to use Olaplex No. 3 or I also Revlon Uniqone Coconut
. This will cost you about $16 in a salon so grab it here for $11 instead!
What products do I use to color the brown?
The brown color is actually my natural color, sorry! But these are two colors that are very similar, Aloxxi’s chroma in 6G is the most similar and I love the warmth it brings! Another would be Redken Color Gels in 6N 
. This one is easier to get your hands on than Aloxxi but is still a beautiful color! Here is a link to both colors!
Nexxus Aloxxi Chroma Creme Colour 6G Dark Golden Blonde 2 oz
Redken Color Gels Permanent Conditioning 6N Suede Hair Color for Unisex, 2 Ounce
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Happy coloring!
The Comments
Rachel Ekman
I still may need your help when we see you next. I haven’t colored my hair since high school but it sounds fun to try again!
Kristen
What color is the brown ?
Cassie Jean
KristenThe brown is my natural color, but Aloxxi’s Chroma in color 6G is very similar. However it is harder to find without a license. I’ll add a link to one I found under my bonus tips above! Redken’s Color gels in 6n is also similar and easier to find. I’ll add a link to that one as well!
Kristen
Cassie JeanWhen would you add the brown ?
Cassie Jean
KristenThere are a few different ways you could do this but I would suggest applying the darker color, in your case the brown color, before the actual balayage.
Apply the darker color from roots to where you want the balayage to end, feathering down in the same w, v, or swoosh shape mentioned above. When you do apply the blonde, and to avoid an obvious line from blonde to dark, feather your blonde slightly up into the brown color still using the above shapes.
Hope this helps!
Kristen
Cassie JeanYou have been very helpful. Thanks so much for creating this post !! Awesome !!
Cassie Jean
Cassie JeanNo Problem!
Tammy Sanchez
Cassie JeanIt’s beautiful! Can I use a high lift verses the bleach? Will it lift if I do the dark first? My roots are about two inches of dark growth and blonde on the ends. But I want more of this look for the winter and it seems healthier.
Cathy
Cassie JeanIs it OK to lowlight with shades eq. Then a day later or so do the balayage and tone with 9v etc from seq also? The bright toner won’t effect the lowlight..?
Lauren Lee
ah-mazing. thankyou for the step by step. your hair is gorgeous.
Cassie Jean
Lauren LeeThanks Lauren!
Marissa
So you don’t use actual blonde hair dye to do balayage? Just lightener and toner?
Cassie Scroggins
MarissaYes! The blonde color won’t work if your hair isn’t lightened!
Brenda
Cassie ScrogginsIf after using the bleach to lighten, you wanted to apply pink, peach, yellow ombré affect, would you do any different steps in the process above?
Christina
How do you see the back of your hair well enough to make the pattern? Also, are you supposed to wash your hair with shampoo after the bleach step, or just rinse with water? Thank you!
Cassie Scroggins
ChristinaI pull everything forward. That’s how I see the back. Yup just rinse out the bleach and wash it with shampoo and conditioner like normal after the bleach has fully developed!
Mercedes
Hi thank you for this step by step guide. Very helpful. I got balayage done at a salon about a year ago so it has grown out quite a bit and want to re-touch it at home. Should I use same bleach, developer and toner all throughout my hair or use different levels of tone and volume in natural and lightened strands? If so, what levels and tones do you recommend? My hair is naturally black and it’s a soft cool toned ash brown color where the balayage is. Please help. Thank you.
Stephanie Kidd
Hi there I myself am also a cosmetologist but I have to admit it’s been some time since I’ve actually performed balayage technique probably since I was in school at Aveda Institute Chapel Hill in 2010 and we were only taught by using Aveda colors n toners considering they are basically 97% derived from plants on the permanent color line and 99% on the Demi permanent line as well for the toners which were completely separate the entire Aveda color lines available are like no other color lines available so the formulas are complicated and unique plus in order to use Aveda color line you have to purchase the entire color line kit not just the colors n toners that you need which is crazy expensive so my question to you is my hair is a level 7.5-8N revirgin hair completely and I need your help to explain the process in detail to me with using what exact products/exact colors/ exact techniques for example back combing from start to finish because I do want to darken my hair up from the roots to just about 2.5-3 inches above the nape and balayage starting from that point can you please please help me I have access to buy professional products and will be using the store near me named cosmoprof not sure if you’ve ever heard of that before but you have to be professional to even purchase products from there but you know the deal it is August, 21, 2019 at 12:02pm I am writing you this and I would like to go buy the products today if at all possible you can get back to me before 6-7pm when they are closed for the day thank you for all of your help I have a general understanding I just want to make sure I get it right since I’m wanting to darken the roots to the 6N or whichever you think is best and have a blessed day !
Cassie Scroggins
Stephanie KiddHey Stephanie, So this post is just showing what products I use to balayage my own hair and because I can’t see your hair in person to know what exact color, texture, condition of your hair, I won’t be able to recommend exact products or techniques to use besides the ones already listed in the post.
Since you went to hair school I’d assume you already have a good understanding of balayage techniques so my advice to you would be to go to a salon or one of your hair school friends and ask them what products they would recommend for you that would be available at CosmoProf. Does that make sense? All I can recommend is already listed in the post with the exact links to those products. Those are what works for me and my hair.
kayla
Stephanie Kiddwow you are really demanding and you expect her to do that for free? you must not be very self aware from the tone and attitude of your post. she already laid everything out for you. why would she spend hours writing a detailed step by step guide for you for free, not to mention you demanding it to be done IN ONE DAY by your expected deadline?! THE AUDACITY. lol i know this post is old but this was truly insane! wow
Hannah Bright
I can’t find the Olaplex treatment, I found 3, 4, and 5 and purchased that before I realized I bought the wrong stuff. Should I still use this or is there something else you recommend?
Cassie Scroggins
Hannah BrightIt’s not the same! Use 1,2, &3!
Tammy Sanchez
It’s beautiful! Can I use a high lift verses the bleach? Will it lift if I do the dark first? My roots are about two inches of dark growth and blonde on the ends. But I want more of this look for the winter and it seems healthier.
Cassie Scroggins
Tammy SanchezI really depends on how dark your hair is and how light you want to get it. Bleach will help you go lighter!
V
Cassie ScrogginsHey there!
When you paint at the top of the section, is it just the surface that is painted and then further down it becomes saturated thru? Some seem to only paint the surface all the way down, Thanks!
Melissa
If I want to highlight specific pieces of hair (like around my face for ex) not a big section, would i penetrate the entire piece of hair with the bleach or just brush over the top surface of that piece? And also, What technique did you use to get your balayage in the photos in this post? The W, V, or swoosh?
Thanks!
Charli
Could you use just the toner or do you have to use the processing solution as well? I have heard of all the other things you use but never processing solution. Is it particular to that brand and for that brand’s toner to work or? I was just wondering if you could give a bit more of an explanation on that please 🙂 x
Cassie Scroggins
Charliyes the processing solution is particular to that brand of color/toner and won’t work without it. That is why I suggest it.
melissa
CharliHi I cant seem to find the olaplex no. 1 and 2 anywhere any suggestions?? Thanks for sharing
Maria
Hi Cassie! Love how your hair turned out! Did you suggest that specific toner for any reasons other than its the one you use? I’ve used Wella T18 in the past but was never really able to get the ashy color I wanted from it so I was wondering if you thought this one might work better or if you have any other tips?
Cassie Scroggins
MariaI’ve heard good things about the wella t18 and could probably use that interchangeably with what I use. It’s all about the level you get your hair to. If you don’t lighten your hair enough, both the 9v and the wella t18 wont do anthing. So I’d suggest using the level of toner that your hair actually is.
cate
how do you section the hair for painting on the lightener?
Melissa
Hi Cassie I can not seem to find the Olaplex no. 1 or 2 anywhere any suggestions??
Cassie Scroggins
Melissait looks like they stopped selling it to the public! I can’t find it anywhere without a license!
hilary
Cassie – gorgeous hair – I’m inspired to try myself, although I have a handful of grays in the brown (my natural color) so will see how those come out 😉
For everyone looking for Olaplex #1, I had good luck with a reputable seller on eBay. It makes a huge difference so I definitely recommend, especially if you are bleaching!
ashley m carnathan
If I purchase these items how many times could I do the balayage? is it enough for more than one use? Just wondering as I have the products in my cart and its is $175, which is fine if it is for multiple uses. Thanks in advance!
Cassie Scroggins
ashley m carnathanif you get the bleach and the 32 oz developer, that will last you a long time. the toner will last you about 2 tones unless you have a ton of hair. But if you keep it up with a purple shampoo you won’t have to tone very often! Like maybe ever again!
Veronica
ashley m carnathanCould you please post a video of how you do your balayage? It would be very helpful and a lot easier for some of us that have never dyed our hair at home before.
Cassie Scroggins
VeronicaI wish I would have taken one! I don’t do my balayage anymore, instead I do highlights! I’m sorry!
Sandra
Please people, don’t use Olaplex 3 as a leave-in. It’s a treatment, not a conditioner. It needs to be shampooed out once it has done it’s magic (it stops working once it’s dry) and THEN be followed by a leave-in conditioner.
Best Balayage
You do an incredible job! I personally don’t find it easy to do balayage on myself, but yours is absolutely gorgeous. I appreciated your post very much, and you were extremely thorough in describing the process.
Brooke
Hi! Thank you for you helpful post! I can’t find the toner anywhere. Is there another one you’d suggest?
Jessi
Hey, great post! I also wanted to note for anyone who can’t afford or does not want to spend TONS of money on Oleplex, there is a product at Sally’s (also available online) called Absolute Perfection. It is similar to Oleplex and so much cheaper, leaves my very thin, fine hair feeling so much healthier after a bleach session. You can also use it as a stand alone treatment as well to help protect those bonds. Schwarzkopf also makes a bleach called Blonde me which has a bond builder in it as well… so many good options out there these days.
Ginny L Ariana
My goal was the beautiful balayage! I have natural red highlights in my curly brown hair, I’m turning a lot grey, and I went to a hairdresser that put a blue/green brown on my hair turning it black. I also got small highlights instead of the balayage. Do you still recommend the process you did on yourself for me? I have already spent $90 but am afraid to confront her about fixing it.
August 1, 2021
Elizabeth
I would love to do this to my hair! Anyone have suggestions on products I can get at Sally’s Beauty store. I would prefer not to order from Amazon.
Gracyn Overstreet
I would love to see a video of this process!
Isela Ortega
Hi so after I bleach what do I do to get that white bayalage color??! Do I use the blonde with a toner??
Kate
What if I want to add reds to my dead rodent color hair?
Lorraine Chui
You look gorgeous in your balayage hair. What would be your tip for me as this will be my first-time bleaching my hair? Thank you for your answer in advance
Peyton
Lorraine ChuiGirl I say this with all the love in the world, but from experience- you probably do not want to attempt this technique if you’re trying to do it the first time by yourself. It’s much more difficult (or so I have found) to bleach, balayage, highlight, etc on your own hair period- but for the first time trying it you may want to try something a little more simple that lets you get the feel of what you’re supposed to do/ how you’re supposed to do it/ what’s best to use and for how long. I get bored with an experiment with my hair quite a bit but it’s taken me a while to build my confidence enough to try this and after getting started, I certainly wouldn’t have been comfortable attempting this the first time I ever bleached or dyed my own hair! But sending my best wishes out to all the ladies doing the damn thing for themselves and taking the time for a little self care!
Krystal
Is there a video I’m missing?
Jezebelle
I would love to know how you sectioned your hair and what paint pattern you used in each section.
Jezebelle
I would love to know how you sectioned your hair and what pattern you painted in each section.
Deonna
I am so grateful you shared this!! However, Amazon doesn’t sell any of these (such as redken coloring anything and processing solution) and I’m only finding some in the wells brand. Could you possibly list something equivalent of these on amazon? I’ve used box in the past and it turns out ok but would really love to add a root tap/toner to the process. Please help.